Flûtes

A wooden simple system flute, played across the embouchure hole like an orchestral flute but with six open finger holes and few or no keys. It produces the warm, breathy tone characteristic of Irish and Scottish traditional music, quite different from the bright sound of a modern silver flute.

Material, keys and tone. A concert flute is metal with a full key system covering every chromatic note, built for orchestral range and volume. A simple system wooden flute has open holes, few keys, a smaller range and a much warmer sound. It is also considerably easier to play in the keys traditional music uses.

You can, but the embouchure takes weeks to develop and many beginners give up before the first clean note. Starting on a tin whistle for a few months teaches the fingering with no embouchure at all, then the transfer to flute is mostly about breath. That route is faster overall despite the detour.

D, for the same reason as with whistles. Irish and Scottish session music assumes a flute in D, and instruments in other keys cannot play along. Keyless flutes in D cover the great majority of the traditional repertoire. Only add keys once you know you need the accidentals they provide.

A few weeks to produce a reliable note, a few months to get a tone you are not embarrassed by, and a year or two to sound like a traditional player. The embouchure is the whole battle at the start. Short daily practice builds it far faster than long occasional sessions.

Rosewood is lighter, warmer and less expensive. African blackwood is denser, gives a more focused tone and is what most experienced players use. Both need care. Swab the bore dry after every session, oil the wood a few times a year, and never leave a wooden flute in a cold car or in direct sun.

Embouchure, and it takes weeks rather than minutes. Aim the airstream across the hole rather than into it, keep the lips relaxed, and cover roughly a quarter to a third of the hole with the lower lip. Short frequent attempts build it faster than long frustrated sessions.

Two to four times a year in normal conditions, more in a dry climate and less in a humid one. Use a proper bore oil applied sparingly on a swab, not a household oil. Oiling protects against cracking, which is the main risk to any wooden instrument. See Scottish woodwind instruments for the wider range.