Flannel Shirts

The finish, not the pattern. Flannel cloth is brushed after weaving to raise a soft nap on the surface, which traps air and makes it warmer than an unbrushed cloth of the same weight. A flannel shirt can be plain, striped or checked. The plaid association is American convention rather than a definition.

A flannel shirt is a shirt and tucks in. A shacket is cut as outerwear, in heavier cloth with a boxier body and larger pockets, and is worn open over a tee rather than tucked. If you want a layer under a coat, take the shirt. If you want the outer layer itself, take a shacket.

As a mid layer, comfortably. As an outer layer in real cold, no, because the nap traps air but the cloth stops nothing. Wear it under a chore coat or a bomber and it earns its place. Two flannel layers beat one heavy jacket for anything where you will be moving between cold and warm.

Looser than a dress shirt, since it is a layering piece. It should close comfortably over a tee with room to move at the shoulder. Send chest, sleeve and body length. If you only ever wear it open, size for the shoulder rather than the chest and mention that in the order notes.

Wash cool and inside out, avoid fabric softener, and never tumble dry on heat. Softener coats the raised nap and flattens it, which is what makes an old flannel feel slick rather than soft. Pilling comes from friction against bags and seatbelts more than from washing, so a soft brush or a fabric shaver deals with it.

Brushed cotton and cotton rich blends, chosen for the nap and for how they soften with washing. Patterns are woven into the cloth rather than printed on the surface, so the reverse shows the same check as the face. Weights vary across the range, so check the individual product page if you need a specific one.