Tin Whistles – Scottish Kilt

2 Instruments

Tin Whistles

Tin whistles and Celtic penny whistles, the standard entry instrument in Irish and Scottish traditional music. Six open finger holes and a fipple mouthpiece, so no embouchure is needed and a beginner produces a clean note immediately. Buy one in D, since almost all session music assumes it. Despite the name, most are made in nickel or brass rather than tin, with some in polymer. Buy in D. Almost all Irish and Scottish session music is written for a whistle in D, tutorials assume it, and turning up with anything else means you cannot play along. Metal bodies give a brighter tone that carries in a session. Polymer is more forgiving of moisture and temperature. Neither needs maintenance beyond swabbing out moisture after playing and keeping the mouthpiece clean.

About this collection

Tin Whistles and Celtic Penny Whistles

The tin whistle is the rare instrument where the claim that it is easy to learn is actually true. There is no embouchure to develop and no reed to control, so a complete beginner plays a recognisable tune within an hour. What takes years is ornamentation, meaning cuts, taps and rolls.

Key matters more than material. Almost all Irish and Scottish session music is written for a whistle in D, tutorials assume it, and turning up to a session with anything else means you cannot play along. Buy a C only as a second instrument once you already play.

It is also the sensible route into other instruments. The six hole fingering carries almost directly onto a wooden flute, and a good deal of it transfers to a practice chanter as well.

Tin Whistles

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Common questions

Frequently asked questions

A simple six holed fipple flute, meaning you blow into a mouthpiece that directs the air across an edge, so no embouchure is required. It is the standard entry instrument in Irish and Scottish traditional music. Despite the name most are made in nickel or brass rather than tin, and some in polymer.

No. They are the same instrument under two names. Penny whistle is the older term, from the price of a street bought whistle in the nineteenth century. Tin whistle describes the material of the early mass produced ones. Anyone in a session will use either word and mean exactly the same thing.

Yes, and it is the rare instrument where that claim is true. There is no embouchure to develop and no reed to control, so a beginner produces a clean note immediately and a simple tune within an hour. What takes time is ornamentation, meaning cuts, taps and rolls, which is where traditional playing actually lives.

D. Almost all Irish and Scottish session music is written for a whistle in D, tutorials assume it, and turning up to a session with anything else means you cannot play along. Buy a whistle in C only as a second instrument once you already play. Check the key on each product page before ordering.

Easily. The six hole fingering carries almost directly onto the simple system wooden flute, so whistle players pick up the flute far faster than absolute beginners. Bagpipe fingering on a practice chanter differs more, since it is played legato with gracenotes rather than tonguing, but the finger positions still help.

Nickel and brass bodies with plastic or wooden mouthpieces, and polymer bodies on some models. Metal gives a brighter, more cutting tone that carries in a session. Polymer is more forgiving of moisture and temperature. Neither needs maintenance beyond swabbing out the moisture after playing and keeping the mouthpiece clean.

Almost always too much air. The second octave needs a faster, more focused breath rather than a harder one, and beginners overblow. Ease off, narrow the airstream and make sure the finger holes are fully covered, since a partly covered hole causes the same squeak.

Blow the moisture out and swab the bore after playing, since a wet whistle clogs and sounds airy. Wash a plastic mouthpiece occasionally in warm soapy water and dry it fully. Metal bodies need nothing beyond drying. A clogged fipple is usually moisture rather than dirt.

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