Formal / Black Tie

A Prince Charlie jacket with a three button waistcoat, a wing collar shirt, a bow tie, a dress sporran, kilt hose with flashes and ghillie brogues. Worn after dark. It is the direct equivalent of a dinner jacket and is read the same way.

Prince Charlie for evening formality, Argyll for daytime and for anything less than black tie. The Argyll can be worn open or closed and covers a much wider range. The Prince Charlie only reads correctly after dark with a bow tie.

Only for the most formal occasions, and as a guest generally not. It adds real presence at a head table or as a groom at an evening reception. As a guest it can look like you have outdressed the wedding party.

One or the other, never both. A three button waistcoat is the traditional pairing with a Prince Charlie. A cummerbund is the alternative, worn pleats upward around the waist. Both cover the waistband, which is the job either is doing.

It will read as overdressed, which is noticed as clearly as underdressing. For daytime formality an Argyll is the correct jacket. The Prince Charlie belongs after dark and nowhere else.

Ghillie brogues in black, laced correctly with the wrap above the ankle bone. Plain black shoes will pass in most rooms but ghillies are what the outfit expects at this level.