Pleated Plaid Skirts

A pleat folded so all the folds run in the same direction, each one overlapping the next like the pages of a book. It is the pleat used in kilts and in most tartan skirts, and it is what produces the sharp vertical lines and the controlled swing. Box pleats, which fold in alternating directions, sit flatter and read softer.

A kilted skirt wraps, fastens with straps and buckles, and has a flat front apron with pleats only across the back. A pleated skirt is pleated all the way around and closes with a zip. The kilted version reads more traditional. This page covers the pleated version. See tartan and plaid skirts for the full range.

They suit more shapes than people assume, because the pleats hang from a fitted waistband and fall straight rather than adding bulk at the hip. Where they can go wrong is length. A pleated skirt ending at the widest part of the calf shortens the leg. Take it just above or well below that point.

Something fitted and tucked, so the waistband stays visible and the pleats hang from a clean line. An untucked top hides where the pleats start and the whole skirt loses its shape. A fine knit, a tucked shirt or a bodysuit all work. Add a narrower alternative if you prefer a sharper line.

They hold well because acrylic takes a permanent crease. Press on a cool setting with a cloth between the iron and the skirt, working down each pleat rather than across. Never press directly on a high heat, which glazes the surface and leaves a shine that cannot be removed. Hang rather than folding.

Premium acrylic woven to the sett, which is the right material for pleating because it takes and holds a crease that heavier natural cloth loses over time. The pattern is in the weave rather than printed, so both faces of every pleat show correct tartan as the skirt moves.

Press each pleat individually on a cool setting through a cloth, working from the waistband down and holding the fold in place as you go. Acrylic takes a crease well, so they will come back. A garment steamer plus finger pressing works for a light refresh between proper pressings.

Knife pleats all fold in the same direction and overlap, producing sharp vertical lines and a controlled swing. Box pleats fold in alternating directions away from each other, sitting flatter and giving a softer, more even fullness. Knife pleating is what kilts use and what most tartan skirts use.